Wagyu Is The Way

While authentic A5 Japanese Wagyu may technically be beef, it’s spiritually something else entirely. 

It’s art, legacy, love, and transcendence in edible form. 

To fully experience the bounty of richness and flavor that Wagyu is known for, we decided to eat an all Wagyu tasting menu at Oniku Karyu, a Michelin star spot that specializes in all things Wagyu.

We were seated in a small private dining room, served some champagne from the top of the wine pairing list, and greeted by the chef Haruka Katayanagi who stopped in to show us the beautiful chateaubriand that would be used for the main course.

Now we all know that Wagyu is tender, superbly marbled, and quite unctuous. But what stood out about Oniku Karyu is the variety of ways they use the prized ingredient, and the different choice of cuts and types of beef they use.

The first bite we had was a simple raw Wagyu nigiri. It was so simple and highlighted the natural flavor and buttery texture of the beef. 

Next was a mini beef katsu sando. Perfectly toasted milk bread, a thick slice of beef breaded and fried to a nice medium temperature, and a slightly drippy layer of sweet and savory katsu sauce. Easily one of the most delicious things I have eaten all year.

Next was a special Tajimaguro sashimi, served with a ginger soy sauce and a side of salt. The server informed us that they are not always able to get their hands on this special breed of beef, but are always excited to serve it when they can.

The next dish was an intensely decadent beef stew, the likes of which I have never tasted before. It was so rich, with a dark and hearty gravy that packs so much flavor and depth, and of course tender chunks of beef. The server said it takes 3 days to make the stew, and that they sometimes sell a frozen version for guests to take home. 

The grilled beef filet or chateaubriand was presented nicely with some pickled vegetables and a tiny purple potato. This was followed by a series of three different miniature rice bowls: roe and baby sardines, grilled beef and lava egg, and beef curry. The grilled beef and lava egg was divine, and I regretfully (for fear of being a true glutton) turned down the free refill the server offered. 

The wine pairing we chose had a nice blend of domestic sake and wine, as well as some international wines, and all paired very well with the respective dishes. 

Desert featured a jelly-like substance with grape and pear, followed by a very scrumptious black tea pudding that served as a nice finish to the meal.

The chef was kind enough to let us take pictures with him behind the counter of the main dining room, and escorted us to the elevator as we made our exit.

This was one of the more expensive meals I’ve had on the Michelin circuit, but the excellent service, unparalleled quality of products, and creative uses of the world’s best beef make Oniku Karyu a must for anyone visiting Tokyo.